DIY Car Repair and Test Tool
2015年 07月 31日
The USB key/USB dongle is required when using Mercedes Benz original Super MB Star C3 multiplexer with external removable diagnostic software HDD (current 2015.05V Platinum edition).
The Super MB Star C3 USB dongle tester.exe is needed when you encounter these 2 occasions:
1) Have the super mb star USB key inserted the laptop via USB port, but trying to enter the Xentry or DAS, the Star diagnosis software keeps prompt:
“Please insert Super MB STAR USB key”
The USB key indicator was on, but did not flash or turn off
2) Super MB star 2012.11 with moveable hard disk, and when run DAS software, it says "Super MB star dongle not found! Please insert the USB Dongle!"
1. First of all, use the Super MB Star diagnosis system USB key correctly.
Before start the Super MB Star software, insert into USB KEY, and when it runs, don’t take out USB KEY, otherwise the computer will automatically shutdown.
2. Then check the VM settings, please tick before USB key, please set like this: Removable Devices-USBkey-Show in Status Bar.
3. If it still fails to detect the USB dongle, download the Super MB Star USBKey tester.exe, insert the USB Key into the laptop, and then open the USBKey Tester.exe, if this software can be opened successfully, it shows that your USB Key is working.
Free download the Super MB STAR USBKey Tester.exe
2015年 07月 30日
Before go deep into the topic today, let’s check the ICOM A and ICOM B module indicator and meanings.
It is not different to see that if the Red LED indicator of either ICOM A or ICOM B emulator flashes, the Rheingold ISTA-D ISTA-P software will report error and fail to communicate with vehicle.
BMW ICOM A2+B+C diagnostic system A2 module red indicator blinking when connected to vehicle with LAN cable.
2 solutions provided by experienced BMW ICOM diagnostic system experts:
DISCLAIMER: We are not responsible for the damage.
1-rehot hot air gun this IC
2- Replace or change new one if necessary
3-The problem is the IC
Fix the ICOM A2 emulator firmware follow the PCB board displayed below:
The pulse generator to buy on auctions
white wire=the line to the WiFi antenna.
Others all marked in the PCB board
2015年 07月 24日
If your MB SD Connect Compact 4 Star diagnosis system reports “DCDI-eErrorCode=204 (204)” error”, “Batteries cannot be charged!” etc error messages, you have to get the SD Connect software update to the current 2.30V (OS: 2.3 CSD: 2.8).
Following are the step-by-step instruction on updating and flashing SD C4 multiplexer firmware:
Battery if necessary (6 AA 5 batteries)
Dell D630 laptop
OBD 12V power supply if cannot connect with vehicle
Step 1 Introduction
1) Check battery if needed (only if related message is shown in the display)
When working on the vehicle or using an external power supply, the message "! Batteries cannot be charged!" may sometimes appear on the SDconnect display:
This may be related to tarnishing, crystal formation, or corrosion on the battery contacts or leaking batteries:
Since the external power supply is extremely important for the update process, the batteries should be checked for the above-mentioned indications by removing the side panel on the SDconnect (see details on “How to install SD Connect Compact 4 rechargeable batteries” at
If the SD Connect C4 is not connected to vehicle or fed with OBD 12V power supply, the Star diagnostic software will display 662 error “The software update was aborted. Please repeat the update process”
• If the batteries are contaminated, you can do the following:
- Clean or polish the battery contacts and re-check the battery function.
- Exchange the batteries if necessary (see SDconnect manual, chapter 2.3.2, for notes on batteries)
• After checking the batteries, you can continue with the next step.
2) Closing Xentry Diagnostics/Xentry DAS diagnostics application
When accessing a vehicle in Xentry Diagnostics or Xentry DAS, the following message appears:
Please exit the diagnostic application Xentry Diagnostics or Xentry DAS correctly and follow the next steps.
Step 2 Connecting the SDconnect to the Star Diagnosis system
Connect the SDconnect to the Star Diagnosis system with the green LAN cable.
The SDconnect will be automatically selected and appear in the deskband on the Star Diagnosis system:
Step 3 SDnetControl
1) Start SDnetControl by clicking the deskband
Go to the "Connections" tab.
2) Check whether automatic selection via the cable connection is active:
Go to the "Configuration" tab, and confirm the warning with "Yes":
Step 4 Software update
Go to the "MUX" tab in SDnetControl.
Click on the "Software update" button.
The "SDconnect Toolkit Administration" program will start.
Go to the "Software update" tab in the SDconnect Toolkit.
Your SDconnect is already selected on the left-hand side.
Select the "Software update" packet under "Files for software update".
Click "Start" to start the process.
The update process will start. This takes approx. 4 minutes.
Step 5 Complete the installation
Confirm the successful completion of the update.
After a successful update, a message indicating the successful update completion appears.
Confirm the message by clicking "OK".
Update not successful
If the update was not successful, the message "The software update was aborted. Please repeat the update process" will appear.
Confirm this message by clicking "OK". Check the SDconnect batteries if necessary and repeat the update process.
Step 6 Check the installed software
Go to the "Information" tab in SDconnect Toolkit
Select your SDconnect on the left-hand side.
• Check the information under "Software versions" at the right:
The versions of the Linux OS and the CommandServer must be at least 2:0:xxxxxx.
The SD Connect 4 firmware update is completed. The green LAN cable can be removed.
2015年 07月 21日
This post starts with my 2005 E55 engine died problem, then comes with Mercedes Benz diagnostic tool star C3 used to diagnose, finally solved Fuel pump relay and socket remove and replace, how I do these, please go on reading the following parts.
Car model and year:
2005 E55 with 92,000 miles, factory stock.
The car’s engine died driving down but restarted after 10 minutes, and die…restart..die…restart…. I replaced the Crank and Camshaft Position Sensors as soon as I arrived home. The next day the engine died on three separate occasions.
Mercedes Benz diagnostic tool used:
I bought this star diagnostic C3 best quality as claimed, $469+$79 shipping to US.
Trouble codes read out:
Tests resulted in no diagnostic trouble codes, no bad sensors, no bad modules; according to the computer, all was well.
Check maintenance records and what I tried to do
Looking at the maintenance records, I see no sign of fuel filter replacement or any other maintenance on the fuel system. Since I was planning on replacing those items at the 100K mile service, I ordered the fuel sending unit and fuel filter assembly and will replace upon arrival next week.
The only way I can think of to see if the engine failure is caused by lack of fuel pressure and/or spark is to drive the car until it quits, then check the fuel pressure with my mechanical gauge and pull a plug wire and see if I have spark. This also means I need a co-driver who doesn’t mind getting stuck on the side of the road while troubleshooting the car.
Resolved. Fuel pump relay and socket remove and replace
Removed and replaced the fuel pump relay and its socket. Appears that a dirty fuel filter plus partially-clogged pump inlet screens caused an overcurrent condition of the fuel pump motors. Fuel pump relay overheated and literally melted the socket.
I cut out the old socket, crimped and soldered new connectors onto the wires, and installed a new relay.
FWIW: I also learned that only one of the two relays is for the fuel pumps. The other relay is for the electric pump located under the left-front headlight.
For reference, here are the part numbers I located.
2005 E55 fuel pump relay cross-references:
Hella 4RA 007 791-011 (Auto catalog)
Hella 007791011 (General catalog)
Bosch 0 332 019 103
Replacement relay socket:
Hella H84989011 (Amazon, Summit Racing, etc)
Terminals (purchased locally at industrial electric supply house but available through mouser.com):
10-12 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female,quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab.
14-16 gauge 0.250” (6.3mm) female,quick-disconnect, non-insulated with locking tab.
Note: the relay coil ground wire is18 gauge and must be doubled over to use the 14-16 ga terminal.
You will need a good wire crimp tool.
Relay positions in the photo are reversed from the OEM factory position. You should ensure which relay powers which circuit before performing any work.
Update on fuel pump relay failure
Relay contacts were lightly pitted from arcing caused by opening and closing of the relay but still only indicated 0.6 ohms when closed. In the future, I intend to replace this relay whenever the fuel filter is replaced. Catalog rates the contacts at 100,000 cycles but a milliohm contact resistance should not have produced enough heat to melt the relay and socket.
In 85 degree F ambient, my IR thermometer measured the hot spot on the new relay at 138 degrees F this morning. To melt the plastic, the temperature of the relay would have to be over 300 degrees F.
(Edit. Temperature data this evening. Outside air temp ~ 95 degrees F. Trunk ambient air temperature 117 degrees F. Fuel pump relay hot spot was 171 degrees F.)
These are only two data points with both indicating relay temperature is approximately 53 degrees F more than the trunk ambient. Having suffered through this failure, I am looking at "and/or" options.
Option 1 is a DROK voltmeter/ammeter readout mounted in the trunk and powered from the fuel pump relay coil input. Option 2 is a thermocouple powered by the relay fuel pump output. I am installing option 1 and ordering option 2 because I never, ever, never want my wife stuck again on the shoulder of the highway on an elevated expressway downtown in heavy traffic.
Some may consider this overkill but I prefer to have a system that I can monitor just by opening the trunk while the engine is running. Amperage too high (>20 amps) or relay temp >225 degrees F means it is time to pull maintenance on the car. I'd much rather take the car down for maintenance on my terms than have to potentially flat-bed the car 200 miles to a dealer (or receive a tense call from my wife that she is on the side of the road in a very dangerous place).
Hope this helps someone in the future. Star diagnosis
2015年 07月 20日
After read many posts on Toyota TIS Techstream in the Toyota/Lexus forums, I conclude an increasing number of Toyota/Lexus owners and technicians bought and using a little piece of MINI VCI cable by Xhorse running TIS Techstream software for diagnosing and programming Toyota Lexus. To help more users who are confused which best diagnostic scanner (code reader) for Toyota / Lexus. I list all of verified TIS Techstream functions here based on many users.
1. follow the next parts to operate is at your risk, I did not verify all but I conclude what Techstream can do verified by users in the forum.
2. Some users may be not lucky enough and got knock off mini vci cable and work not well. Therefore, I recommend you buy Mini VCI by Xhorse, Xhorse authorize some dealers to sell MINI VCI, obd365.com is one of these dealers.
MINI VCI cable Toyota TIS Techstream V10.10.018 is available at:
Toyota TIS Techstream Test Report
1. Great success with TechStream today. passenger seat chime disabled; moonroof now opens with windows (both with key in cylinder and holding down button on remote), adjusted rear wiper interval.
2. It works great! I disabled seat belt warnings and enabled window roll down via key FOB very easily.
3. I got rid of the seat belt chime, changed my units of measurement from miles/fahrenheit to km/celcius and turned off the auto door lock feature when shifting out of park.
4. I was able to switch off the damn seatbelt chime in a few short clicks.
5. I've just received my mini vci cable and got techstream working on my 2015 TEP.
6. Worked on my 2015 Trail.
7. Techstream works wonders. Can activate different things and change settings on your vehicle. Factory scan tool capability.
8. Techstream for $30 is the Animal you want. I have programmed new keys, cut off steering wheels going up and down when starting and cutting off engine, running lights, etc. Also gives you detailed engine specs. I use it on all 3 of my cars.
9. I only bought the Techstream thing to disable the auto-retracting steering wheel and set all the door locks to open with one button press.
10. Just be aware that at least some of the techstream packages will only run on a 32-bit OS.
The PC can be 64-bit, but the OS must be 32-bit.
11. Got the techstream last night. Installed on a Win7 32bit laptop easily. Reprogrammed the DRL, the auto alarm arm to 60sec, and removed the auto steering wheel telescoping feature. Pretty nice and easy to work with.
12: Got mine last night too. Hooked it up to a Win XP laptop. It connected to the truck fine and was able to read the ECU data fine.
2015年 07月 17日
I finally (today) got my wife's 9-3 running after two months of frustration. I'm a bit stubborn, so once I decide to do something myself, I just don't give up.
The car started throwing the dreaded P0606 code repeatedly, and was virtually undriveable.
So, I ordered an ECM from an eBay seller, and a Chinese TECH 2 clone.
Eventually, they both showed up. The Tech 2 was acting up right away - it kinda worked on my 9-5 without the Candi module, as well as on my Chev van with the Candi module, but refused to communicate with the 9-3. Suddenly, it just died. Wouldn't even power up.
Thought about getting it replaced, but that would take forever - so I just ordered another GM Tech 2 from a different seller www.obd365.com. Took even longer for that to arrive, but it seemed to work fine - and could talk to the original ECM but the replacement ECM was dead. Didn't show up at all...
So... I ordered another ECM on eBay. That finally arrived today. Bolted it in, plugged in the cables, and adding it with the Tech 2 actually worked!
BTW - I'm using a laptop with Windows 7 Professional, and installed TIS on a virtual XP machine. I'm using some cheap $5 USB to RS232 adapter. It can be made to work fine.
I figure the whole ordeal still cost me less than if I had to tow the car to a dealer and pay them to do it.
2015年 07月 15日
Mercedes car model and year: CLK500 (2002)
Symptom: today while accelerating, suddenly the car started to lurch and sort of try and stall, I got a warning like (ESP defective, visit workshop!) and the car cut out when I came to a stop.
It then started normally but the engine light is on, it runs with a slight hesitation upon acceleration now, but the malfunction warning hasn't happened again.
Tools advised to work out the issue:
You need to check codes. A cheap generic OBDII scanner costs about $30 and can pull ECU codes. Some auto parts stores do it for free. Note that this won't scan the codes from the ABS/ESP system - you'll need an advanced scanner like Star Diagnosis for that. Generally and ABS/ESP fault in and of itself won't trigger an MIL, but if it fails causing the car to stop unexpectedly, it can cause other temporary faults, like a misfire, that do trigger an MIL.
I have several MB star C3 Pro with 5 pieces of cable, they never let me down, and I verified it is the best quality one. I paid $469 +shipping from
PCB board picture as follows:
Star c3 packed with 5 pieces of cable, including a RS232 to RS485 Cable. This cable is made from metal.
More questions and answers between the experienced poster and me.
My question on the above tools advised:
will get it plugged in at a local Indy, update, this morning I came to rest at a junction and suddenly it accellerated something fierce, had I not been on the ball, I would've ended up putting a big mercedes imprint in someone's door.
The engine check light is still on, still split second hesitation when the throttle is pressed, I can get it to the floor and back with no increase in revs, but under normal driving it's not totally unmanageable (for now).
Is it likely to be the throttle position sensor? And if so, which one? Does it have one on the pedal and one/several on the throttle body? Is there any way of testing such as if there is lag in the pedal but the throttle responds ok when operated by hand at the body? (Can't find that as yet).
Answer: The accelerator pedal itself is electronic and sends a signal to the ECU which in turn controls the throttle, which feeds back a signal from its position sensor to the ECU. There is a resync procedure (search the form for TCU or ECU rest) that might help, but I suspect you will have a code indicating either a bad accelerator or bad throttle position sensor.
Question: yes tried that and no difference that I noticed, engine light still on etc, is there only the pedal that sends signals to the ECU/throttle, or is there others on the throttle body that recieve from the ECU?
Also, are the pedals all the same on the W209? Eg could I get a 320 pedal and it would work? Even the diesel? They seem to list them under just the chassis number and year on eBay with no engine size/type
Answer: The ECU actually controls the throttle based primarily on input from the accelerator pedal, but also other sensors do come into play. Before swapping parts, get a proper diagnosis. Also, the accelerator pedal has different part numbers based on VIN. If you do get ready to buy one, let's check EPC for the right one for your VIN.
Also, I noticed that you say you have a 2002 CLK500 - there is no such thing. MY2002 was still the W208 chassis, which was the CLK430. You car is likely a MY2003, with a plate or registration year of 2002. I know this can be confusing, especially outside the USA where "model year" is less important. However, like most makes, MBZ begins building and selling the new model year vehicles the year prior.
The finally solution will be worked out. Wish the above posts benefits you.
2015年 07月 14日
If you are a beginner locksmith, you need a tool for programming the keys on European car, but have no ideal which one is the best and almost use.
And to consult in the experienced locksmiths, most locksmiths would say like this: you will need more than one tool depends on how serious you want to get into the key business and the combination can cost you well over 20K...
Therefore, you have to know what your planned budget is.
To recommend the most used key programmers, I provide a general guide to help the beginners if they budget is around 1000$ and 2000$ to 3000$. For more details on these tools, you need to click the link to know.
If your planned budget is 1000$
Zed bull clone with effi software 200$
Xprog M 100$
Renault Nissan key prog tool (clone of truecode) 100$
UPA USB Programmer 90$-100$
TM100 with some option 500$
You will can make more than 60% of European park with this set and with less than 1000$.
BUT DON'T FORGET YOU WILL DON'T BECOME "PROFFESIONAL LOCKSMITH"
And you haven't cutter I.E condor and Automatic V8/X6, decoder-reader-pick, transponder stock, key stock...
Right price is 40 000$.
By the way, if you are beginner, first you need learning electronic.ist better to start with radiodecode, after key programing.need know what its one dump,what ist hexa and another.
If your planned budget is around 2000$-3000$
Xhorse BMW multi tool 800$
VW Audi key prog tool (VVDI) 1100$
Original Tango 1100$
More car key programmer click here: http://www.obd365.com/wholesale/car-key-programmers/
2015年 07月 13日
Customer has lost all keys so he asked to see if I can get car going
Do I read the small 8 pin chip on the circuitboard has 33399 and x46 on the chip so is it a 93c46?
Finally solved with X100 key pro:
Since I have the X-100 Pro I was advised to try to get PIN by VIN and program the key via OBDII socket.Transponder to be used is the PCF7936 (ID46). And another one said he used X100 to do it, he tested last weekend. it would done 100 per 100. He just needed pcf7936 precoded or remote key.
MY personal tested report:
The x100 worked once I precoded the keys
The car is a 07 model in Australia but in USA I guess its 05 or 06
Once I used 0506 jeep settings on x100 it worked and I didn't even need the key
I also opened this dump in EFFI software and it actually gave me the pincode.
Other working tools advised by experienced locksmith:
Keys are store in the Motorola 9S12Dxx (0L85V).Find attached the diagram for in circuit reading using either ORANGE5, or TMpro2
Red = +5V or Vcc
Blue = GND
Orange = Reset RST
White = BDM or BKGD
2015年 07月 09日
Jaguar and Land Rover JLR mangoose SDD pro diagnostic software has just been updated to V142. Our engineer tested and verified working. Software is free downloaded here:
Software version: V142
Operating system: Win XP/Win 7
JLR Mangoose SDD Pro V142 Win XP/7 software installation guide on Win 7:
1) Install SDD v142 setup
Open DVD Drive (E:)142-1
Open and install “SDD 142.00 FULL” setup
Select SDD setup language: English (United States)
Installing setup is in progress
Accept license agreement
Accept SDD and Firewall Compatibility message
Confirm destination drive, press “Next”
Tick “All languages” and click “Next”
Click “Install” to install the Microsoft Visual C++ 2005 program
Click “Yes” when “ActiveCGM” notice pop up
SDD setup installation is completed. Confirm installation, press “Next”
Application is being installed
Installation completed. Click “Next”
2) Install Windows driver
Install Windows Driver setup wizard, press “Next”
Browse to certain folder, click “Next”
Click “Install” to install Driver setup wizard
Click “Finish” when is completed
This will create JLR SDD software on the desktop
Click “Finish” when wizard is completed
Restart the computer
3) Install VDF-JA-142 and VDF-JV-142
Open JLR DVD 142 folder
Install VDF JA-142 application
Select language, press “Next”
Click “Finish” if it is completed
Back to the folder
Select language, press “Next”
Click “Finish” if the application is installed
Then restart the computer
4) Open VDF-LA 142 & VDF-LV-142 software
Open VDF-LA 142 software on the DVD
Click “Finish” when complete and restart the computer
Open VDF-LV-142 software on the DVD
Click “Finish” when complete
5) Install SDD-142.01, SDD142.02 &SPA142 software
Open SDD-142.01 on software folder
Update complete. Click “Finish”
Restart the computer
Install SDD-142.02 software
Follow the same procedure as SDD-142.01
Select SPA-142 icon on tool bar, Click “OK”
Again select Additional Pinpoint Tests icon and wait
Click “Finish” if the SPA-142 installation is completed
6) Install Mangoose Pro JLR 142 Driver
Open DVD folder
Open Driver folder
Install “drivers for MangoosePro JLR”
Accept End-User License Agreement
Click “Finish” when J2534 Mongoose Pro JLR is completely installed
7) Connect Mangoose SDD cable
Connect JLR mangoose cable with computer via USB port
Open Computer>>Manager>>Device Manager>>Univeral Serial Bus controllers>>Vehicle PassThru Interfaces>>MongoosePro JLR J2534 Interface, to check well communication is built
8) Run JLR SDD software
Open JLR SDD software on the desktop
Click SDD software
Complete Dealer information
Wait the software to read VIN automatically
This is the test version software, please finish setup and test during the prompted data and time. And froze the computer using the frozen software for CD, then test car in the near feature will not be influenced.
Select system you want to diagnose and follow SDD prompts:
How to froze the computer and use the frozen software for CD?
Open My Computer
JLR mangoose 142 DVD
Open “DFStd KEY” notepad
Copy the DFStd key
Open “DFStd” file on DVD
Paste the DFStd license key to License Key column, click Next
Select Disk C:// only in “Froze Drivers Configuration” windows, click Next
Click “Install” to install deep freeze
Restart the computer
More details click here:https://www.facebook.com/notes/he-daisy/how-to-install-jlr-mangoose-sdd-v142-software-on-win-7/1681802425373940